Saturday, October 3, 2009


wayne huff
12-27-2007, 04:25 PM
First of all this is for racing or off road use.
You need to make sure to start with a well tuned SL, especially the timing and point gap need to be set to specs.
All the changes you will be making are easily reversable and require no welding or major surgery.
Things you will have to have are an AC coil(where the plug wire comes from).The one I used came from an old Honda Express with the condensor made on to the coil but nearly any brand from most jap two strokes should do if you can mount it.
You will need a Honda rotor puller. These are basically just a short bolt but the puller is a good investment as it will pull just about every rotor Honda has ever made. Do not try to remove the rotor without one!
Step 1: Lock the advance to full. Remove the bolt and washer holding the point cam and advance mechanism. What I did was find the perfect washer that will just fit over the camshaft and thick enough to bind the point cam in a fixed position when you put the stock bolt and washer back in. Or any way you can lock the advance.It will not run with variable timing because the magnets in the rotor must be aligned with the stator coils at the time the points just start to open.(fire). If they align at stock time they will not be aligned at full advance and you will have no spark.
STEP 2: Remove the rotor and the woodruff key. You will not use the key.Clean the crank and the rotor taper with contact cleaner etc to remove any oil or grease or the rotor may slip.Turn the engine to where the points just start to open, align the rotor magnets directly with the coils and tighten it down with normal torque. It needs to be tight but don't break the bolt off in your crank! It should not slip as the main force keeping it in place is the taper, not the key. Scribe your new fire mark and TDC mark on the rotor for future tune ups.
STEP 3:Unplug the harness coming from the stator, it has 4 wires. Go ahead and remove the wire going to the neutral light switch to get it out of the way.
That leaves 3 wires, you will use two. One of the wires will need to be grounded, the other goes to your coil. The pink wire goes to the coil, the yellow wire goes to ground. The other(white) is not used. If you cannot make out the color, on mine the harness plug has 6 slots for connections. There should be only three with wires still left.If you laid the plug flat there are two wires on one end that are like top and bottom and one wire should be off to the side in the row with 3 openings. That wire goes to the coil. One of the other two goes to ground. Just hook it up and see which wire gives you spark at the plug. The other wire is unused.At this point your bike should run fine but don't run it without installing the AC coil. You could check to see if it would crank even with the DC coil but do not run it long or ride it without the AC coil installed, it can cause holes in pistons and other nasty things to happen.
STEP 4:Wire you up a standard kill switch (button ground) or whatever you like.Remove the rectifier and all the unnessary crap like fuses and excess wires and enjoy the simplicity. Play with your timing a little if you want but remember the magnets and coils still have to be aligned instead of the holes.

I plan to remove the unused windings ( coils) on the stator soon and will let you'al know how that goes. One of those coils left will have to be grounded to complete the circuit so keep that in mind if anyone wants to go ahead and do this.
THANKS TT, my SL runs great and yours should too!!!

1 comment:

  1. I was reading about that last week. My concern was running it at full advance and jamming washers in there.